NEW YORK Relais & Chateaux is a trade organization, but it doesn’t have conventions in Las Vegas. Instead, this global consortium of hotels and restaurants links the super-wealthy with destinations to lighten their heavy wallet loads. The press release for its Grand Chefs on April 18 promised “a once in a lifetime gastronomic experience.” Who says no to that? Pas moi! Here’s a look at what happened that night, with my take on the lighting, the champagne, and (of course) the food.