There may be no better proof of "It’s not what you know, it’s who you know," than this year’s American Food & Wine Festival. Despite the grim economy, Wolfgang Puck and Barbara Lazaroff’s annual fund-raiser for Meals on Wheels attracted more chefs and wineries than ever when it took over a portion of the Universal Studios backlot on Saturday, October 3.
“The event is 27 years old,” said festival producer Joan Wrede of Joan Wrede Event Management and Design, who pulled the event together with a team from Wolfgang Puck Catering and auction coordinator Patti Obermiller. “They have cultivated many, many friendships along the way, and there is a very impressive camaraderie among these chefs. And Wolfgang will make appearances at some of their events. This format is in large measure successful because of Wolfgang’s reputation.”
The festival drew 45 chefs, including Bouchon’s Thomas Keller, Nobu Matsuhisa, K-Paul’s Paul Prudhomme, and Tribeca Grill’s Drew Nieporent, who joined executive chefs from across Puck’s Spago empire. Along for the ride were 90 West Coast wineries—25 more than last year, mostly boutique wineries recommended by Spago sommelier Chris Miller.
Not surprisingly, spirits were high among the sold-out crowd of 3,000 as guests ambled along the backlot’s Spartacus and Denver Street byways, lined with vendors offering generous samples, more than the usual tastes and sips provided at similar events. The infectious good mood was fortunate, because the event was struck by a power outage shortly before 8:30 p.m., and electricity wasn’t fully restored until 10:15. Wrede, who has produced the festival for six years, said that unlike previous years, Universal hadn’t provided back-up generators; Universal director of promotions, special events, and customer relations Krista Boling said there were generators on site for the event.
“This event has been at Universal for 11 years, and it’s a dynamite location,” Wrede said. “It’s part of the reason people have so much fun. This was very unfortunate. We need to talk seriously about how we proceed, but it’s important to focus on the fact that they have been good partners. I’m confident we’ll work this out together and continue to be partners.”
The outage didn’t seem to daunt most guests, who continued to mingle among the booths tricked out in fall colors. Wrede dressed tables in simple black cloths to hide spills and chef’s booths in white, working with some sponsors to create more elaborate spaces or leaving vendors to enhance their stations with a fall palette if they wanted. Sponsors’ tables were topped with varying arrangements of mums, hydrangea, and sunflowers, while the V.I.P. lounge, where Puck hosted an hourlong cooking demonstration before the public event, was decorated with seasonal squash and mums. Wrede shaved costs this year by dispensing with event maps and topping cocktail tables with fishbowls holding sand and votive candles.
By 9 p.m., electricity was restored to the Spartacus area, where the main stage showcased a cover band called Impulse. The activity drew part of the crowd, but some guests actually preferred the dimly lit areas. And while some chefs’ stations were shut down by the lack of electricity, wine pouring continued throughout.
“Everyone was gathered around the vintners maybe more than they might have,” Wrede said. “There was a lot more intimacy and fraternizing between vendors and restaurants and guests. The idea is to try new wines, taste new food trends, and experience new chefs. I want it to be a party—talk to people you don’t know and strike up conversation. Maybe we accomplished more of that than we planned.”
Guests left with a commemorative softcover book of recipes by participating chefs. The event raised about $1.3 million for Meals on Wheels.
