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Sietsema Approves of Armstrong-Aided Majestic

The Majestic dining room.
The Majestic dining room.
Photo: Courtesy of the Majestic
Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema gave the recently rehauled Majestic restaurant in Alexandria (formerly the Majestic Café) two and a half stars in Sunday’s review. When former owner Susan McCreight Lindeborg announced last winter that she was closing up shop, Restaurant Eve and Eammon’s owners Cathal and Meshelle Armstrong took over and reopened in May, and “a food lover couldn’t ask for better caretakers,” Sietsema said. The couple shortened the venue’s name, tweaked the menu, and softened the decor—not a surprise, considering “attention to detail has long been their credo.”

Described as “always something to anticipate,” the bread basket at Majestic offers up yeast rolls, herbed biscuits, and “what might be the moistest corn muffins for miles.” Celebrated local mixologist Todd Thrasher is on board here (as he is at PX), which “almost demands that you order a cocktail,” according to Sietsema, who said the “Tom Collins is tart and refreshing; the daiquiri is a detour to somewhere sunny, with perfect amounts of rum and grapefruit and lime juices.”Former Restaurant Eve chef Shannon Overmiller is at the helm of the Majestic kitchen, and “seafood is a particular draw,” with “most every dish [having] one or two elements that make it special.” The critic especially liked the broiled whole sardines with capers, garlic cloves, and breadcrumbs, and the warm soft-shell crabs with pea shoots. The dish that fell short: meatloaf, which Sietsema said “is bland despite its onions and herbs.” Sides that earned praise include the English peas, green beans with caramelized onions and bacon, and succotash. “A few old-fashioned notions that add a dash of whimsy” include a tableside-prepared Caesar salad and daily-changing layer cakes.

The Majestic’s philosophy is “casually swank,” which Sietsema said is “short, sweet, respectful of what came before it—and right on the money.”
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