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  1. Production & Strategy
  2. Strategy

Fashion Week: Highlights From DKNY, Marc Jacobs, and Other Off-Site Shows

Anna Sekula
September 16, 2011

Whether overshadowed by the elaborate initiatives created for Fashion's Night Out or cut for budgetary purposes, the staging and set designs of Fashion Week this season have been somewhat subdued—even outside the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tent venues—with not quite the same level of exhibitionism that February offered.

However, in place of ornamented backdrops and fancy runway surfaces was the continued experimentation with different format styles—from the intimate café-style setup of Tommy Hilfiger Men's on the High Line and the tongue-in-cheek corporate boardroom tableau at the Nasdaq MarketSite for DKNY Men's to Vivienne Tam's live sculpture garden of yoga wear in Lincoln Center's Hearst Plaza and the cabaretlike scene that opened the Marc Jacobs show at the 69th Regiment Armory. Perhaps the most unusual was Norma Kamali's outing, which debuted the designer's spring 2012 collection via an eight-minute 3-D film displayed on Lincoln Center's David Rubenstein Atrium's 42- by 13.6-foot media wall.

Younger labels also made an effort with decorative environments. Gant by Michael Bastian had tropical-looking, flower-filled platforms for its models in the Park's garden atrium, Degen put knitters on display at west Chelsea site Artisanal House, and Alice & Olivia created a garden landscape to contrast its bright-colored looks at Highline Stages.

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Photo: Nicholas Hunt/PatrickMcMullan.com
Lindsay Degen
Lindsay Degen
On September 7, before the shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week official opened, Lindsay Degen put an artsy spin on her presentation in a west Chelsea town house. Leading editors to the secret space by wrapping trees and signposts with knitted pieces, Degen also draped the facade of the venue with a colorful blanket of yarn panels. Inside, models stood in the center of the ground-floor room, while endurance knitters sat at the sides and in marked wooden stands. Guests could grab custom hair wraps and treats from an ice cream cart outside, or take knitting lessons.
Photo: BizBash
DKNY
DKNY
Also on the day before Fashion's Night Out and the first show in the tents, DKNY took over Times Square's Nasdaq MarketSite for a presentation of its menswear. In addition to the lineup of models, the brand also appropriated 12 Reuters JumboTrons outside the space to show its ad campaign video for the collection, which could be seen through the venue's floor-to-ceiling windows.
Photo: BizBash
DKNY
DKNY
To place its collection of modern, slim-fit menswear in context, DKNY created a playful tableau, imitating a corporate boardroom with five male models gathered around a conference table.
Photo: BizBash
Rachel Antonoff
Rachel Antonoff
Last September, Rachel Antonoff fashioned a presentation styled after sleepover parties and other girly get-togethers; this season the emerging designer created a more spooky installation for her spring 2012 preview. Black-and-white cartoonlike cutouts of furniture, spiderwebs, and candelabra produced by retail display company Aux Armes filled meatpacking district studio Ramscale on September 8.
Photo: Daniel Silbert
Buckler by Andrew Buckler
Buckler by Andrew Buckler
Much like last season, the Buckler by Andrew Buckler show closed a street to use as a catwalk. The outdoor event on September 9 took over the meatpacking district's Gansevoort Street between Greenwich and Washington streets, just two blocks from the designer's store.
Photo: Courtesy of Andrew Buckler
Tommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger
Building on an outing from February, Tommy Hilfiger opted once again to showcase its men's collection separate from womenswear and closed a portion of the High Line on September 9. Rather than rows, seats stood clustered around tables and guests were served beer, instead of champagne.
Photo: Theo Wargo/WireImage for Tommy Hilfiger
Alice & Olivia
Alice & Olivia
Grassy flooring and white lawn furnishings set the scene at Highline Stages for Stacey Bendet's Alice & Olivia line on Monday. The garden backdrop contrasted with the collection's bright and colorful clothing.
Photo: Courtesy of Alice & Olivia
Vivienne Tam
Vivienne Tam
In addition to showing her eponymous line at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents, Vivienne Tam debuted her first-ever yoga collection with what she called a "live sculpture garden" at Lincoln Center's Hearst Plaza on Tuesday. Clothing was worn by 20 female yogis, who performed a series of poses choreographed by yoga experts Rodney and Colleen Yee.
Photo: Jeeyun Lee for BizBash
Norma Kamali
Norma Kamali
In place of live models and a catwalk, Norma Kamali put the looks of her spring 2012 collection into a 3-D film and displayed it on the media wall of Lincoln Center's David Rubenstein Atrium on Wednesday.
Photo: Jeeyun Lee for BizBash
Gant by Michael Bastian
Gant by Michael Bastian
Inspired by Hawaii and Brady Bunch reruns from his childhood, Michael Bastian created a melange of preppy but brightly colored clothing for his Gant collection. To match this, the platforms for the models at the Park on Wednesday were painted in fluorescent hues and topped with wooden totems and flower-covered columns, four of which spelled out "Gant."
Photo: BizBash
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Despite pushing back the date, Marc Jacobs produced a surprising show for his eponymous collection. The outing, which closed out Fashion Week on Thursday, mixed formats and brought a cabaret-style scene to the 69th Regiment Armory. At the start of the show, a gold lamé curtain rose to reveal 46 models sitting on a row of chairs, who, once the music started, got up from their places and walked down the runway set in front of them.
Photo: Nicholas Hunt/PatrickMcMullan.com
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